The first day of 2000 would
bring the hardest hike of the Milford Track, crossing
Mackinnon Pass at 1036m. The day was mostly rainy in the
first half, which was a double-edged sword: while the far-off
views were obscured, the hundreds of waterfalls through the
valleys would be more spectacular.
The
first half of the day was uphill to the pass; as the weather
got colder, we put on more and more clothes, eventually
wearing hats, gloves, jackets - the works. Snow could be seen
on the peaks around us; New Zealand was having a cold spell
to welcome the new year. The climbing helped to keep us warm,
and we were treated to the change in scenery as we left the
rainforest and climbed up to the scrub above the tree line.
After arriving at the peak
lodge, we warmed up around the gas heater and filled up with
steaming cups of tea and instant soup (I never knew instant
soup could taste so good!).
The weather on the second half
of the day as we hiked down from the pass to Quintin Lodge.
The drying room (actually the waste heat from the generators)
was full with all of our wet clothes and boots. Our boots
were especially soaked this day from our side trip behind
the Sutherland Falls.
At
the base of the falls we hiked (well, waded is a better word) through the pool at the
bottom of the falls, and to a small hollow behind the falls
at the bottom. Sutherland Falls was the inspiration for the
opening of the Milford Track; it allows people to hike to the
falls in a few days from the east, rather than forcing a sea
voyage and a day's hike from Milford Sound. Sutherland Falls
is 630m high, and is quite a sight. The first image on this
page of the falls is taken from at least 1/4 mile away. The
image at right shows Shelley walking back from behind the
falls at the base.
Our last day
brought us through more rainforest, past several landslides,
and finally to Sandfly Point. Some of the ferns were probably
12 feet tall. As we approached Sandfly Point (and a ferry to
our end point in Milford Sound, our pace quickened, knowing
that a hot shower (and a cold beer) were waiting for us at
the end of the day.
