The last time I sent out an update,
we had just completed the Transamerica portion of the
trip in North Carolina. The last month has been a
scramble of non-cycling trips around the USA and
western Europe. Finally, yesterday we got on the
loaded bikes for the first time in over 5 weeks. First,
we flew back to Houston to visit Steve's family, then
up to Kansas for Shelley's family (and another two
football games at K-State). It was great to see
everyone again, and the time off the bikes were used
to run errands and take care of logistics for the
next legs of our travels.
We got the tandem back from Santanna (remember
that?), and the repair looks as good as new. We will
rebuild it completely when we eventually settle down;
for now, we'll stick with the mountain bikes and two
trailers.
We then flew back to New Jersey to stage the jump
across the Atlantic; we had a fun time visiting our
old friends and co-workers from the area, as well as
visiting New York City a couple of times. We saw the
Halloween parade in the Village (quite interesting).
We also were able to ride with JSTS (our old bike
club) on one of their weekend rides; it was nice to
ride without 50 pounds of gear behind our bikes for
once!
Finally, it was time to leave the comforts of
Joe's condo and head for the road again. We flew to
Paris, where we rented a car (a green Citroen Saxo,
the same car Steve had in Brussels), put the bikes
and trailers inside (yes, all of it fit inside
this small hatchback!), and drove into the city,
where we met with our friends Ivan and Isabelle.
Leaving the gear in their home, we spent a few days
visiting the beaches of Normandy, the site of the D-Day
invasions during WW2, complete with mixed weather
ranging from sun to rain to wind and hail. This is
definitely the off-season for Normandy - it was
fairly well deserted, and nice to see from the warmth
of the car.
We then went to Mont Saint Michel, a spectacular
abby built high on an island, before driving down to
the Loire valley to meet with Ivan and Isabelle for
the weekend. We visited the castles of this beautiful
area with our own special tour guides (trying lots of
great French cuisine along the way). Although the
weather was cold, at least we got some sunshine on
our visits.
After the weekend with Ivan and Isabelle, we drove
to Germany, where we would meet with our friends
Sabine and Guido in Bonn. We spent a few days
relaxing, visiting sites around Bonn and Cologne, and
meeting another friend (also named Sabine) who once
stayed with us in Hong Kong (it seems a lifetime ago
now). Sabine (#1) has a 2 year old boy named Luca - a
very well behaved young man. However, one day, he
reminded us why they're called the "Terrible 2's".
Good kid, good lungs. He really is a great
kid, and he even taught Steve some German from his
picture book. Now, if I can only figure out how
knowing the words for "cat", "dog",
"truck", and especially "NO!"
will help me order dinner at a German brewhaus...
We also took a day trip into the Netherlands and
Belgium to visit a pair of US Military cemetaries
from WW2. The site of thousands of gravestones all
lined up in neat rows is quite moving. Sizes of these
places is often disturbing:
- Normandy, France: 9387 burials, 1557 missing
- Margraten, Netherlands: 8302 burials, 1722
missing
- Ardennes, Belgium: 5328 burials, 462 missing
And these are only the ones we visited on this
trip - there are many more like them throughout
Europe and the rest of the world. It helps one to
remember the sacrifices of the men and women before
us. (FYI, the largest US Military cemetary outside
the USA is in the Philippines - Shelley has visited
it. 17,206 burials, and an astounding 36,282 listed
missing.)
At the Ardennes cemetary outside Liege, we met
Hans Hooker, the very friendly American supervisor.
Upon hearing that we were from the USA, gave us a
very nice personal tour of the facility, offering us
all kinds of information and hospitality. We think he
may have been happy to have other Americans to talk
to!
We then drove to Brussels, our home a few years
ago. We visited friends there again, mostly co-workers
from Shelley's posting at the American Standard
office there. It was nice to visit again, and we
enjoyed some Belgian specialties of beer, chocolate,
beer, mussels, beer, fries, stoemp, and beer.
Amazingly enough, during the entire 27 hours we were
in Brussels, it didn't rain (probably a
record for November).
Finally, it was time to leave the colder north and
head south. We drove back to Paris, met Ivan and
Isabelle again, and after a short evening's sleep, we
loaded up the car, drove to the airport, and flew to
Madrid, Spain, for the start of the cycling portion
of this European leg. We hope that the weather in the
south of Spain will be good for cycling - we will
probably spend most of it south in Andalucia, as well
as up the coast of Portugal.
Many of you probably know that 13 countries in
Europe will be switching to the "Euro"
currency at the beginning of next year. It would have
been a great thing if it was available to us on this
trip. We have spent French Francs, Luxembourg Francs,
German Marks, Belgian Francs, and now Spanish Pesetas
(didn't spend in Netherlands, and haven't made it to
Portugal yet). 6 currencies, 6 exchange rates to
remember, and what do you do with the change when you
leave the country? Come January 1, the Euro will be
in paper and coins, and will make travel and commerce
a little easier in Europe. The fact that the Euro is
nominally close to the value of the US Dollar helps a
bit, too - it's easy for me to relate to a drink that
costs "2" of something, not so easy to
relate to a small used car that costs "1,000,000"
of something else.
Once again, we'll miss Thanksgiving. It's perhaps
our favorite holiday, a good excuse to relax, eat,
and watch football on TV. For 6 years now we've been
out of the USA at this time of the year, trying to
replicate the holiday in Singapore, Belgium, Hong
Kong, and now Spain. Somebody please save us some
leftovers!
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Tailgate party at K-State:
Dianne, Kevin (water), Craig,
Shelley (milk), Steve (nothing)

Boo!
Halloween parade in the Village

Honfleur, Normandy, France

WW2 era temporary harbor
at Omaha Beach, Normandy

WW2 German bunker, Normandy

US Military Cemetary at Normandy

At Chateau Chembourg with Isabelle and Ivan
Loire Valley, France

Chateau Chenonceau, Loire Valley
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